elysemarie's blog

Muslin 3: Ankle Bootie Moccasin

A new element I have added and explored over the course of this quarter has been moccasin construction. I like the utility and the style these shoes have, and it fits well with my adventurous, bohemian,  customer.

here is a pic from the pattern making process. these are the back pieces and the heel cap.

draping the pleated cuff.

the pleated cuff, draped and trimmed.

the stages of draping and creating the pattern.

Next, I cut and assembled the pieces.

cutting out the leather

assembling the counter, heel cap, and cuff

chip inner sole, just for the muslin. I'll make this in molded soling leather for the final product.

mostly assembled, almost time to last.

The lasting process is intriguing for moccasins, as it doesn’t follow the traditional method of lasting to the inner sole on the bottom of the foot. For this particular shoe, it is only lasted this way in the back. The remainder of the lasting happens actually on the top, when I stitch together the walls to the vamp of the shoe.

lasting the counter and heel in the traditional way

first doing a lock stitch on the top for the initial 'lasting'. This is done through holes that were measured and punched in advance.

I trimmed away the raw edges of the lining after finishing the first lockstitch seam, then added the blanket stitching.

presto! The final thing, taken off the last.

I was quite happy with the overall result for this piece. There are a few variations I will be adding for the final, such as lengthening the tongue. I will also be adding a loop to the top of the tongue which I can run a strap through; I didn’t execute the strap yet because I still need to get the proper hardware. Also, my original sketch called for a ring on the inside, connected to the strap, but after seeing the way it plays out, I think I’ll be cutting that to keep it from being too much.

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This entry was published on November 18, 2009 at 4:18 pm and is filed under Senior Collection, Uncategorized. Bookmark the permalink. Follow any comments here with the RSS feed for this post.

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