This is the second part of the egg satchel muslin, the actual construction. I decided to separate the two because the construction got quite complicated, and thought it warranted a separate post. This was the muslin from hell, fyi; I ended up ripping the whole thing apart and completely redoing the gusset pattern.
Here as I cut out the lining and leather pieces.
Next I began constructing, working in “blocks”. I first constructed the strapping pieces, as shown below.
Next I worked on the front and back applied pocket and applique. This is the place where the proverbial s%*t began to roll downhill with this pattern, as the curved pocket opening I would have liked to have just didn’t work with the zipper. I ended up redrafting the pocket pattern and re-cutting the pieces.
Shown above, I ended up altering the front pocket opening to better accommodate the zipper. The pocket is lined, and a stay is used to maintain the shape of the pocket. Shown below, a stay is cut from the master pattern and is also used to turn the end tabs around, ensuring they all end up the same shape across the collection.
and now, this is where the proverbial rolling s%*t ball hits the steepest part of the hill. The gusset pattern was a complete failure the first time around. I ended up totally scrapping my original darted gusset idea, and replaced it with a flat, tapered gusset/bottom that incorporates the rings on the gussets of the bag.
Shown below, I am desperately trying to line up the pieces onto the outside of the form with little success. They just wouldn’t lay correctly, leaving excess leather is some spots, bunched canvas in others, and a displeasing line on the front to boot since I was trying to compensate for the gusset not falling into place. All around bad.
So, as they say, it was back to the drawing board. Or in my case, pattern cutting board. First though, I had to tear apart everything I had sewn together, which was pretty much like adding little stink lines to the pile of shit this muslin had become.
Finally, with this altered gusset, I was able to sew everything together and reach a successful end product. Phew.
There are only a couple modifications I will need to make for the final, and those occur in the gusset. The gusset piece needs to be generally shortened, so that the ring will hit lower on the gusset. This will create a better line with the strapping blocks and will give a better fit for the elasticated top and clips.