elysemarie's blog

Muslin 1, Part 2: Egg Satchel Construction

This is the second part of the egg satchel muslin, the actual construction. I decided to separate the two because the construction got quite complicated, and thought it warranted a separate post. This was the muslin from hell, fyi; I ended up ripping the whole thing apart and completely redoing the gusset pattern.

Here as I cut out the lining and leather pieces.

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tracing onto lining for cutting

all lining pieces cut and laid out

all lining pieces, cut and laid out

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tracing and cutting the straps in the muslin leather

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most of the leather pieces cut out

Next I began constructing, working in “blocks”. I first constructed the strapping pieces, as shown below.

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gluing and sewing together the strapping between the side pocket/applique pieces and the gussets
one strap "block" completed, the other with rivets set, ready to be sewn to rings

one strap "block" completed, the other with rivets set, ready to be sewn to rings

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both finished strapping “blocks”
measuring strap seam allowances, cementing, and turning.

measuring strap seam allowances, cementing and turning.

Next I worked on the front and back applied pocket and applique. This is the place where the proverbial s%*t began to roll downhill with this pattern, as the curved pocket opening I would have liked to have just didn’t work with the zipper. I ended up redrafting the pocket pattern and re-cutting the pieces.

beginning turning the front and back pieces.

beginning turning the front and back pieces.

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the original front pocket piece, with the curved zipper opening that wouldn't work nicely. sadness.

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the edited front zipper pocket, successfully sewn using an oaktag stay to maintain the pocket opening shape when sewing.

Shown above, I ended up altering the front pocket opening to better accommodate the zipper. The pocket is lined, and a stay is used to maintain the shape of the pocket. Shown below, a stay is cut from the master pattern and is also used to turn the end tabs around, ensuring they all end up the same shape across the collection.

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tab, turned around oaktab stay to ensure uniformity for all the tabs, since this is a common detail in my collection.

and now, this is where the proverbial rolling s%*t ball hits the steepest part of the hill. The gusset pattern was a complete failure the first time around. I ended up totally scrapping my original darted gusset idea, and replaced it with a flat, tapered gusset/bottom that incorporates the rings on the gussets of the bag.

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gusset pattern with sewn piece in background. This piece wouldn't fit the egg satchel form correctly, so I tried modifying the existing darts on the pattern, but to no avail.

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altered darts that would ultimately fail

I also had to add darts to the front and back pieces, a modification I was alright with but was still unplanned.

I also had to add darts to the front and back pieces, a modification I was okay with but was still unplanned.

Shown below, I am desperately trying to line up the pieces onto the outside of the form with little success. They just wouldn’t lay correctly, leaving excess leather is some spots, bunched canvas in others, and a displeasing line on the front to boot since I was trying to compensate for the gusset not falling into place. All around bad.

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bad design lines, poor form fit, total yuck.

So, as they say, it was back to the drawing board. Or in my case, pattern cutting board. First though, I had to tear apart everything I had sewn together, which was pretty much like adding little stink lines to the pile of shit this muslin had become.

torn apart muslin after this shit ball rolled to a messy end. epic fail.

torn apart muslin after this shit ball rolled to its messy end. epic fail.

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new bottom and gusset pattern, sans darts, and inserted in between existing front and back. Voila! Success!

Finally, with this altered gusset, I was able to sew everything together and reach a successful end product. Phew.

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3/4 view of finished egg satchel muslin

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front view of finished egg satchel muslin.

There are only a couple modifications I will need to make for the final, and those occur in the gusset. The gusset piece needs to be generally shortened, so that the ring will hit lower on the gusset. This will create a better line with the strapping blocks and will give a better fit for the elasticated top and clips.

This entry was published on November 8, 2009 at 7:18 am and is filed under Senior Collection. Bookmark the permalink. Follow any comments here with the RSS feed for this post.

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