elysemarie's blog

Muslin 1, Part 1: Egg Satchel Patternmaking

I am calling this the egg satchel muslin for now, since it literally is a satchel type bag in the shape of an egg. I am incorporating a new variation on the roll top bag in this muslin, an elasticated top with swivel clips that clip on the gussets of the bag.

Part 1 of this is the draping and patternmaking for the muslin. Part 2 will be the construction process.

I started with the basic shape I was going for, and created this in the easiest way possible by placing 2 curved carts in the bottom of the bag.

master pattern for basic shape

This is the master pattern for the basic shape of the bag.

this is the master shape cut and sewn, then stuffed to show the form of the bag

this is the basic form of the bag, cut out of muslin, sewn, then stuffed to see an approximation of the shape and to make a “form” to drape on here after.

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next I drew the shapes I wanted on the bag "form"

I began drawing and draping on the bag “form” so I could then use this to create patterns for the front pocket, the back leather piece, and the side gussets.

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draping the gusset

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front pocket pieces, after draping and gluing onto oaktag

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draped gusset, trimmed and glued on oaktag

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full pattern piece, after tracing, adding seam allowances, and mirroring to accomodate both halves of the bag. Darts also added for shaping.

I continued in this fashion, drawing on the “form” and creating pieces. I was also able to use this form to get measurements for spacing that are hard to ascertain using flat pattern drafting alone.

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drawn in hardware and straps, corrections in red after tracing actual hardware

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measurments taken for strap lengths and seam allowances

After draping all the outer pieces and creating straps (I used previous patterns and altered them, thus maintaining a standard strap size of 1″ across all my products and streamlining my designs and increasing my efficiency in the studio), I created all the lining patterns. These were relatively simple, as I also am using a standard set of pockets in each bag for efficiency purposes. These pockets I have been using in my bags for awhile, and include an inner zipper pocket, an elasticated cell phone and mp3 pocket, and a secret pocket hidden in the lining gusset seam.

pockets, drafted off exisiting standard littlewings pockets

Finally, the finished pattern pieces, laid out.

all finished pattern pieces for the egg satchel muslin

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This entry was published on November 8, 2009 at 6:06 am and is filed under Senior Collection. Bookmark the permalink. Follow any comments here with the RSS feed for this post.

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