elysemarie's blog

Sample 8- Pleated Pocket Detail

I’m adapting a pleated pocket style that I did on bag earlier this summer, and using it as common visual detail throughout my collection. This is the first adaption, making it into one whole pocket instead of two separate ones.

The original bag, the split pocket detail:

original bag with double pocket detail

original bag with double pocket detail

First, I created a front pattern off the original bag.  I then began to play with pieces of canvas and muslin, experimenting to come up with the right shape to fit the front all as one piece.

the front piece with the canvas experiment pieces laid on top for visuall conparison in size and shape.

the front piece with the canvas experiment pieces laid on top for visual conparison in size and shape.

one of the experiment pieces done in leather

one of the experiment pieces done in leather

finally, I found a successful shape for a pattern and was able to complete the patterns for the pocket.

finished pattern pieces for front pocket.

finished pattern pieces for front pocket.

I made a few significant changes to the pocket from the first version. The first one is that I added a leather collar to the top of the pocket lining, rather than using the cotton lining all the way to the top. This way, I can glue the leather on leather in that line of cut slits; I can cut through both layers with one cut, therefore making them perfectly matched.

here, the cut pieces for the pocket detail, some already rubber cemented and edges turned.

here, the cut pieces for the pocket detail, some already rubber cemented and edges turned.

lining up the slits on the outer and the collar leathers- prevented next time by gluing the layers first, then cutting through in one slice!

lining up the slits on the outer and the collar leathers- prevented next time by gluing the layers first, then cutting through in one slice!

pounding the leather edges to roll and finish them

pounding the leather edges to roll and finish them

A new skill that I learned the day I interned with Jason Ross in Philly is how to finish the raw edges on leather by wetting and hammering them, then creasing them under until they curl naturally because the collagen in the leather has been shaped. This is a way to give in a clean edge in a spot where it is impossible to have an edge to turn.

leather front, leather collar and canvas lining.

leather front, leather collar and canvas lining.

I pulled through the leather strap piece like I used before, creating the pleats. Then I stitched along the top of the pleats to hold them in place.

leather strip pulled through to create pleats

leather strip pulled through to create pleats

The final sample gives a good approximation, and will be what I use on one of the bags in my collection, most likely with the original roll-top closure for the top of the bag.

The final pocket for the front of the bag

The final pocket for the front of the bag

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This entry was published on October 15, 2009 at 5:07 am and is filed under Senior Collection. Bookmark the permalink. Follow any comments here with the RSS feed for this post.

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