I’m adapting a pleated pocket style that I did on bag earlier this summer, and using it as common visual detail throughout my collection. This is the first adaption, making it into one whole pocket instead of two separate ones.
The original bag, the split pocket detail:
First, I created a front pattern off the original bag. I then began to play with pieces of canvas and muslin, experimenting to come up with the right shape to fit the front all as one piece.
finally, I found a successful shape for a pattern and was able to complete the patterns for the pocket.
I made a few significant changes to the pocket from the first version. The first one is that I added a leather collar to the top of the pocket lining, rather than using the cotton lining all the way to the top. This way, I can glue the leather on leather in that line of cut slits; I can cut through both layers with one cut, therefore making them perfectly matched.
A new skill that I learned the day I interned with Jason Ross in Philly is how to finish the raw edges on leather by wetting and hammering them, then creasing them under until they curl naturally because the collagen in the leather has been shaped. This is a way to give in a clean edge in a spot where it is impossible to have an edge to turn.
I pulled through the leather strap piece like I used before, creating the pleats. Then I stitched along the top of the pleats to hold them in place.
The final sample gives a good approximation, and will be what I use on one of the bags in my collection, most likely with the original roll-top closure for the top of the bag.